Samburu National Reserve

A different Kenya

Samburu feels a long way from the grassy plains of the south. It’s hot, dry scrub country of thorn bushes, red earth and rocky hills, with a ribbon of green trees along the Ewaso Ng’iro river. Everything in the reserve is drawn to that water, so the river corridor is where most of the wildlife action happens.

The reserve is small, but it belongs to a larger ecosystem with Buffalo Springs and Shaba. Shaba is where Joy Adamson, author of Born Free, lived and worked in her later years. The country has a rougher, more remote feel than the southern parks, and the numbers of visitors are usually much lower.

The Special Five

Samburu’s appeal for wildlife enthusiasts comes down to species that are hard to see elsewhere in Kenya. The Grevy’s zebra, with narrow stripes and large round ears, is endangered and found mainly in northern Kenya and Ethiopia. The reticulated giraffe has a bold, netted pattern. The Somali ostrich has blue-grey legs and neck, the gerenuk feeds standing upright on its hind legs, and the beisa oryx has long, straight horns.

Beyond those, elephants come to the river in numbers, and leopards, lions and cheetahs are all possible. Crocodiles bask along the banks.

When to go

The dry months are best: June to October and January to March, when animals stay close to the river. The long rains from April to May turn the landscape briefly green, and many camps offer lower rates. Daytime heat is significant in every season, so early starts matter.

Getting to Samburu

From Nairobi, the drive to Samburu is about 5 to 6 hours via Nanyuki and Isiolo, and the road is good until the last stretch. Scheduled and charter flights from Wilson Airport take about an hour to the Samburu airstrip. Flying saves a full day each way and is worth it if you’re short of time.

The route passes through Laikipia, so a combined trip with Ol Pejeta makes good sense. It’s also possible to combine Samburu with Lake Nakuru on the way back to Nairobi.

Cost and where to stay

Lodges in and around Samburu range from simple tented camps to luxury riverside properties with private plunge pools. Entry fees are set by the county governments that manage the reserves, and confirm the current rate at the time of booking. Because you’re a fair distance from Nairobi, most travellers stay two to three nights.

Cultural visits

The Samburu people, who are related to the Maasai, live throughout the region. Some lodges arrange visits to villages or cultural demonstrations. It’s worth asking how the visit is organised and whether your guide has family links to the community. The best visits are short and informal.