Kenya Safari Guide: Parks, Costs, Best Time

Why go to Kenya

Kenya is the country most people picture when they think of safari: open savanna, acacia trees, lions on termite mounds and Maasai herders in red shukas. It’s also the easiest place in East Africa to organise a first trip. Flights connect Nairobi to most of the world, the internal air network is well developed, and the range of accommodation stretches from campsites to top-end tented camps.

The Maasai Mara is the headline, especially from July to October when the wildebeest cross the Mara River. But Kenya is more varied than that: Amboseli’s elephants with Kilimanjaro behind them, the rhinos of Lake Nakuru and Ol Pejeta, the dry northern country of Samburu, and the red elephants of Tsavo.

Which parks to choose

If you have a week, the classic combination is the Maasai Mara plus one other park. Add Amboseli for elephants, Lake Nakuru for rhinos and flamingos in a good year, or Ol Pejeta for a private conservancy with night drives and walks. A ten-day trip can add Samburu for northern species, or Tsavo and the coast.

Photographers often favour Amboseli and the Mara. Families choose Ol Pejeta and Lake Nakuru because distances are short and sightings reliable. Repeat visitors gravitate to Samburu and the conservancies.

When to go

Kenya has two rainy seasons: the long rains from about March to May, and the short rains in November. The rest of the year is dry. The migration is in the Mara from roughly July to October, and that’s peak season for prices and crowds. January and February are dry and green, and many guides prefer them.

Adding the coast

Kenya’s coast has white beaches, coral reefs and old Swahili towns. Diani Beach, south of Mombasa, is the most popular resort area. Lamu is quieter and more traditional, and Watamu is good for snorkelling and turtles. See our Kenya safari and Diani Beach itinerary, or combine Tsavo with a coastal stay.

Getting around

Domestic flights from Nairobi’s Wilson Airport serve the Mara, Amboseli, Samburu and Laikipia. Road transfers are also common, and the Standard Gauge Railway (Madaraka Express) runs between Nairobi and Mombasa, with a stop at Voi for Tsavo. Kenya drives on the left, and roads outside the towns can be rough.

Practical notes

Entry rules change, so confirm requirements with the official Kenyan immigration authority before you travel. A yellow fever certificate may be required depending on where you arrive from, and malaria prophylaxis is advised for most safari areas. Carry small US dollar bills for tips, and use Kenyan shillings for local purchases. M-Pesa mobile money is widely used, although visitors generally rely on cards and cash.