Tsavo East and Tsavo West National Parks

Two parks, one big landscape

Tsavo is the largest protected area in Kenya, and it’s usually described as two parks because that’s how the roads and gates work. Together they cover more ground than some small countries. The scale is a large part of the appeal. You can drive for an hour and see nobody else, which is a very different experience from busy parts of the Maasai Mara.

The elephants are the famous animals here, and the red dust that colours them makes for some striking pictures. Herds can be big in the dry season when water is limited, and Tsavo holds one of the largest elephant populations in Kenya. Lions, leopards, buffalo, giraffe and plains game are all present, though the thick bush means sightings need patience.

Tsavo East

Tsavo East is the flatter half. It’s an open, red-soil landscape cut by the Galana River, where you can see crocodiles and hippos near Lugard’s Falls, which is really a series of rapids through eroded rock. Yatta Plateau, the world’s longest lava flow, runs along the park’s western edge. The dry country also suits gerenuk, beisa oryx and lesser kudu.

Many visitors come here by road from Mombasa and Diani. Voi gate is the usual entry point, and several lodges sit close to the Galana River and the Aruba Dam.

Tsavo West

Tsavo West is more varied. Mzima Springs is the standout: crystal-clear water fed by underground streams from the Chyulu Hills, home to hippos and crocodiles, with an underwater viewing chamber. The Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary protects black rhinos, and the Shetani lava flow is a black, rugged reminder of relatively recent volcanic activity. Views of Kilimanjaro are possible from the northern part of the park in clear weather.

When to go

June to October is the most reliable stretch, plus January and February. Animals concentrate near the rivers and waterholes and the bush is easier to see through. The long rains from April to May can make some tracks impassable, and many lodges offer discounts. Temperatures are hot year-round, especially in Tsavo East.

Getting there and how long to stay

From Nairobi, Tsavo West’s Mtito Andei gate is about 3.5 hours by road along the Mombasa Road. From Mombasa, Voi is around 150 km and takes roughly two and a half hours. The Standard Gauge Railway (Madaraka Express) also stops at Voi, and some lodges will collect you from the station.

For a compact trip, spend two nights in one park and add a third if you want the second. Tsavo pairs well with Amboseli on a Nairobi-to-coast route, and it’s the easiest safari to bolt onto a beach stay. See our Kenya safari and Diani Beach itinerary.

Fees and costs

Kenya Wildlife Service sets daily conservation fees for non-resident adults, usually paid per 24 hours, and the tariff is revised periodically. Check the current rate on the KWS site. Costs for lodging are generally lower than in the Mara, and Tsavo is one of the better value safari options in Kenya, especially in the low season.