Volcanoes National Park

Gorillas two hours from a capital city

Volcanoes National Park is the most accessible place in the world to see mountain gorillas. The park shares a border with Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, and lies within the Virunga Mountains. It is a compact park, steep and green, with bamboo and montane forest rising to volcano summits above 4,000 m.

The gorillas here have been studied for decades. Dian Fossey established her research centre at Karisoke in 1967, and her work drew the world’s attention to the mountain gorilla’s plight. Today the population in the Virunga range is growing, and gorilla tourism helps to pay for it.

Permits and how the system works

Rwanda’s system is simple. Twelve gorilla families are habituated for tourists, and each can be visited by up to eight people a day, which means 96 permits per day. A permit costs US$1,500 per person for visitors from outside Africa. It includes park entry, a guide and a maximum of one hour with the gorillas. The minimum age is 15.

You can book through the Rwanda Development Board or through a tour operator. Permits for the peak months of June to September, and for December and January, sell out well in advance, so book early. Ask about promotional rates: RDB has offered discounts to visitors combining gorillas with stays in other national parks during the low season.

What the trek is like

You gather at Kinigi headquarters in the morning, where guides assign you to a group based on your fitness and preferences. A transfer takes you to the start point, and trackers lead you through farmland and bamboo forest. The walk can take anywhere between an hour and six hours. Then, when you find the family, you stay for one hour.

You’ll see the silverback, females and juveniles, and, if you’re lucky, infants. The rangers control distance and behaviour.

Beyond gorillas

Golden monkey tracking is a shorter, cheaper alternative. The Dian Fossey grave hike takes about half a day. Volcano hikes to Bisoke crater lake or Karisimbi, the highest volcano in Rwanda, are demanding but rewarding. Nearby, the Twin Lakes of Burera and Ruhondo, the Musanze Caves and cultural experiences round out a stay.

When to go

June to September and December to February are the drier periods and the most popular. The wet seasons, from March to May and October to November, have muddier trails and more low cloud. Treks still take place year-round.

Getting there

From Kigali, it’s about two to two and a half hours by road on a paved highway to Musanze, and a bit further to Kinigi. Most visitors do a night or two in the area. It’s easy to combine with Uganda’s Bwindi or Mgahinga by crossing the Cyanika border. See our Uganda and Rwanda gorilla circuit, or the detailed gorilla trekking guide.