Murchison Falls National Park

The Nile at full force

Murchison Falls is a spectacle. The Victoria Nile, which has crossed Lake Kyoga, is forced through a narrow gap of about seven metres in the rock, then plunges roughly 43 metres. The noise and spray are formidable. Downstream, the river calms into a wide, slow channel where hippos, crocodiles and elephants gather.

The park is Uganda’s largest and combines the river with open savanna, woodland and forest. Its wildlife declined during decades of poaching and conflict, and it has recovered steadily. On a game drive you can find elephants, giraffes, buffaloes, lions and a wide variety of antelope.

The boat trip

The boat cruise from Paraa to the base of the falls is the standard first activity. It takes about three hours. You travel slowly past pods of hippos, crocodiles sunning on banks, and elephants and buffalo at the water’s edge. Birds include kingfishers, bee-eaters and African fish eagles. At the end, you’ll be close enough to feel the spray from the falls.

A second boat trip goes to the Nile delta, upstream of Lake Albert, where the shoebill, a large, odd-looking bird, is found in the papyrus swamps. It’s a specialist trip for keen birders.

Game drives

Most game drives take place on the north bank, where the savanna is open and animals are easy to see. Rothschild’s giraffes are a highlight, and Uganda kob, hartebeest and oribi are common. Lions are found here, though they can be elusive. Sunrise drives are best.

Chimps and rhinos

Budongo Forest, on the southern edge of the park, has a habituated chimpanzee community that can be tracked. It’s a good alternative if you aren’t going to Kibale. Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, on the road from Kampala, is the only place in Uganda where you can track southern white rhinos on foot, and it makes a good stop on the drive.

When to go

December to February and June to September are the drier periods, and roads are generally passable. March to May and October to November are wetter, and some roads can be difficult, but the landscape is green and there are fewer visitors.

Getting there

By road the trip from Kampala takes about five to six hours. The final section can be slow. You can also fly from Entebbe or Kajjansi to airstrips near Paraa. Once in the park, a ferry crosses the Nile at Paraa. Murchison Falls combines well with Kidepo Valley for a northern circuit and with Kibale for a western trip.

Costs

Entry fees for foreign non-residents are charged per person per day by the Uganda Wildlife Authority, and the tariff changes from time to time. Activities such as the boat cruise, chimp tracking and rhino tracking are extra. Accommodation ranges from budget campsites to lodges above the river.